I know Bacolod is famous for their chicken inasal, and rightly so. The chicken really is delicious, but there is more to this city than the ubiquitous delicacy. This city likes to eat out, and this is proven by the sheer number of delis, cafes and restaurants – each boasting a specialty of some sort. Quaint, little places pepper the city like hidden treasures waiting to be discovered. I could turn geeky and extol my theories about the rich, interesting history of this island, and its implication to the dining habits and tastes of the Negrenses, but I’ll spare you. I know I have only been here a few months and I can’t say I’ve explored much, but these places are by far what stands out for me. In no particular order, I give you the best eating places in Bacolod:
1. Lord Byron’s. Tucked in the quiet corner of Homesite, this place serves melt-in-your-mouth goodness of spare ribs. The place is a simple affair with gravel flooring, and rustic benches and tables. You need to come early, or call in advance. Their spare ribs are famous and they are gone fast. They have another place near Shopping – but it is beside a car-wash shop. It is a tiny booth and is only for take-out.
2. Twist at Sugarland Hotel. They have an assortment of really good dishes – the steaks are quiet good, but my personal favorite is their lengua estofado. Creamy and surprisingly light, you have not tasted lengua estofado like they serve it.
3. Bascon Café – This place – walking distance from the office, is a favorite. Quiet, elegant and they serve moderately priced but delicious food. Traditional fares like callos, lengua estofado, steaks make up the menu, but there are surprises as well. My personal favorite is the pesce balsamico. Steamed fish with salad and reduced balsamic vinegar sauce, it is a delight and an inspiration. Ask for the mashed potatoes to go with it.
4. Café Uma/ Trattoria Uma – A bit pricey, but so worth it! The pasta dishes and the thin-crust pizza is like a celebration unto itself, every bite a flavorful cry of triumph. It was the first time I saw my companion who is a picky eater wipe his dinner roll with the leftover sauce from the pasta. Yes, it is that good. I am saving up for their wagyu beef burger. I know that it will be a delight!
5. Café 1925 – This is actually in Silay City – around 30 minutes from Bacolod City. Small, quiet and unassuming, I liked the décor. Located in what is termed “Paris of Negros,” the café is within walking distance from the heritage houses that boast of the opulent history of the sugar barons. The first time we went, we were hungry and ordered their menu for the day: osso boco. I love the fall-off-bone tenderness of the beef, and the spicy tomato sauce. It was a perfect meal after we have explored the Hofilena Heritage House and the voice of Mon Hofilena still ringing in our ears and the images of his magnificent art collection dancing in our minds. But the best surprise was just how good their coffee was! Paired with churros con chocolate, the coffee was just the right amount of boldness, tone and flavor. It was so good I’d have made Café 1924 my coffee place of choice had it not been too far away from where I work.
6. Pala-pala – Not the exploitatively expensive pala-pala along 18th Street (where dinner can cost up to P8K), go for the original pala-pala at the corner near the Capitol. Just in front of the seafood market, there are restaurants that will cook and serve you the seafood you buy at the market. It won’t be fancy, but the food will make up for the lack of sophistication. I love how they stuff the squid with lemon grass and grill it lightly – then dip in spicy “sinamak.” They also make the best kinilaw this side of the South.
7. Jacopo’s – intensely flavored Mediterranean-inspired dishes, this place is out of the way corner of that building in front of Robinson’s. You have to look for it because it is easy to miss, but when you find it, you are in for a delightful treat. Their dishes are meant to be shared, and they come in gigantic servings (in gigantic serving plates). Try their pita bread with three dippings: baba ganash, hummus, and chili. You will love it. Try their beef red curry. Oh my! Or maybe their salad with feta cheese and candied almonds, and smoked chicken. Yum! Or maybe their fish with tomatoes in olive oil. So good! Or try their sampler kebabs of chicken, mutton and beef. Ah! You will gesture with your hands, smile a lot and declare, “this is so good!”
8. Calea – Calea is famous for their cakes and their pastries. The three-layered chocolate cheese cake alone is enough to convince you this is a little slice of heaven here on earth. Another favorite is the rhum-raisin pudding with vanilla ice cream. It is, without exaggeration and simply put, paradise. But what I find delightful are their sandwich offerings. Delicious and diverse, they make Calea not just a desert place, but a fun eating place too. I’ve tried their chunky chicken sandwich with apples (I think they call it the Waldorf?), their tuna on a rye, among others, but my favorite is their grilled chicken and vegetables with a tangy barbeque sauce. I also love the stuffed ciabatta with pepperoni, cheese, tomatoes and lettuce. It comes in generous servings I could never finish it in one sitting. I usually have the other half wrapped to go to be enjoyed later.
9. Cookies and Crumbs – Right in front of the New Government Center, this oddly-named restaurant (you’d think they just serve cakes, and pastries) has surprisingly good combo meals. I love the mozzarella chicken, pesto spaghetti and salad green combo. The coffee is mediocre at best, but the namesake, their cookie is chewy and tasty.
10. Café Bob’s Deli – I am talking about the portion at the back of Café Bob’s along Lacson where they have a mini-grocery and a deli with assorted cheeses and meats and hams. The pizza was light, crispy and a delight, while the pasta was robust and earthy- just the way you would envision a perfect meal after a long day at work. So good!